So, its been a while.  Instead of injecting a Honda manga, I fuel injected a 95 fzr that i got for cheap.  It was a fun project. But now its done, tested, and sold.  Enjoy the read, and ask questions if you have any.

To begin, this DIY requires a certain amount of mechanical skill. That being said, you don't need to hold a degree mechanical engineering to complete this. Feel free to ask me questions, but before you do, please read the whole DIY in its entirety.

95 fzr efi conversion

What you need:

03-05 r6 throttle bodies: $62.98 ebay (cost and shipping)
03-05 r6 throttle body harness: $19.81 ebay (cost and shipping)
4 inches of an8 (1/2 inch ID) high pressure hose: $4.22/foot ebay (cost and shipping)
3 feet of an6 (3/8 inch ID) high pressure hose: $4.38/foot x 3 = 13.14 (cost and shipping)

megasquirt 1 ecu: $157 diyautotune.com
megasquirt relay kit: $70 diyautotune.com
walbro gsl392 255 fuel pump: $110 diyautotune.com
walbro 255 install kit: $15 diyautotune.com

gm coolant sensor (CTS 85-09): $22 auto parts store
gm coolant sensor pigtail: $12 auto parts store
gm intake air sensor (IAT 93-05): $22 auto parts store
gm intake sensor pigtail: $12 auto parts store
ford escort fuel filter (97-03): $8 auto parts store

1 foot of 1 1/2 inch ID filler neck tube: $15 auto parts store
4 high pressure hose clamps for 3/8 inch ID line: $6 auto parts store
misc hose clamps: $20 auto parts store

30 ft of 20ga wire: $12 auto parts store
10 ft of 14ga wire: $6 auto parts store
10 ft of 16ga wire: $6 auto parts store
50 red butt splices: $14 auto parts store
20 blue butt splices: $8 auto parts store
solder: $7 auto parts store
copper braze rod: $1 auto parts store

1/2 pvc tee: $1 hardware store
4 inches of 1/2 pvc pipe: $2/10ft hardware store
pvc cememnt: $5 hardware store

Misc hardware: $30 hardware store

gp15m silicone diodes: $2.19 radioshack
pc board: $2.19 radioshack
330 ohm 1/2w resistor: $1.19 radioshack


estimated total: ??? still adding little things up



Replacing Carbs with throttle bodies:

Take your old set of carbs off.
separate the throttle bodies.
-Take off the thermostatic enrichment solenoid and linkage, then throw it away.
-Take off the fuel rail and injectors, save for later
-replace throttle body 1 with 3 (carbs and throttle bodies are upside down)

 Reduced: 80% of original size [ 799 x 598 ] - Click to view full image

-cut the ear off throttle body 3 (now in position 1), and braze it on to the cable attachment of throttle body 1 (which be in position 3)
**hardest part of the whole job i figure**




-make two spacers by trimming down the aluminum spacers from your old set of carbs.
-use the longer bigger bolt from your carbs to bolt the throttle bodies together. Contact your hardware store or an online supplier like granger or fastenal to get another bolt. Or if you have another set of carbs laying around (like i did) scavenge the bolt out of that.

At this point you should have a set of throttle bodies that are all linked up and the cables should fasten to the #3 throttle body in between #2 and #3 throttle bodies. Similar to the old setup. Now you need to get them to bolt onto the bike.

Placing modified throttle bodies on the bike:

-Cut your foot long 1 1/2 inch ID diameter filler neck tube into four 3 inch long sections
-Slide them over the stock fzr600 rubber intakes.
-slide on a hose clamp and tighten (not too tight, it will deform the intake)
-If done right the rubber filler neck will stick up over the stock intakes by about 1/2 inch.
-slide on another set of hose clamps, do not tighten.

 Reduced: 80% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image

**note, the hole in the frame was for a older attempt at setting up the carbs, i don't think you need the hole, though you may need to "message" the frame with a 3 pound hammer to make it fit.

-install modified throttle bodies, tighten the clamps.
-reroute throttle cables so they can operate the controls. (i fished them through the radiator hose hole on the frame. It's not 100 percent natural for the cables, but they work fine, and it saves you from buying custom made cables.)
-If the throttles do not close under their own power, an additional spring may be needed.

Modify fuel rail:

-remove fuel injectors
-remove fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
-cut fuel rail in half with hacksaw.
-use compress air/water or both to clean out shavings, and let dry.
-use the AN8 hose, and appropriate clamps (high pressure) to "extend" the fuel rail.
-use a vise and a torch to bend the inlet nipple down.. Take your time with this, too much pressure with no heat, or too much heat will damage and collapse the nipple which is not desired. This has to be bent so it will clear the gas tank.
-use a vise and NO HEAT to straiten the nipple on the FPR. Again, take your time. The nipple has to be bent so it will clear the gas tank support bar. This is the tightest squeeze in this whole project. I did not use heat for fear of damaging the FPR.



Another angle:

 Reduced: 80% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image

If you followed the directions, you should have something that looks like this (minus vac hoses and wiring):

 Reduced: 80% of original size [ 798 x 450 ] - Click to view full image

Building fuel delivery system.

-Save the little hose off the fuel tank petcock.
-Attach it to the inlet side of your ford fuel filter. (a ford filter was used because later on, i found that little paper element fuel filters physically don't pass enough fuel to meet the demands of the bike under high rpm and high load.
-Attach the inlet to the fuel pump with an6 (3/8 ID) hose to the outlet of the fuel filter.
-Attach the outlet of the fuel pump with an6 hose to the inlet of the fuel rail.
**USE HIGH PRESSURE HOSE CLAMPS!!!!!**
-Attach about 1-2 feet of an6 hose on the fpr.

at this point, you should look like this:


-Now we have to add a return line to a tank that never had one... i know people are going to scream at me, but you have to drill into your tank.

-I chose to make the return high in the tank so that if for some reason it decided to leak, i would not use all my petrol.

-I drilled a hole with, tapped it with a 1/4 npt tap. Then i threaded in a 90 degree elbow with a 3/8 hose-barb attached.

-Make sure you mount the return line so it doesn't interfere with the airbox.

It looks like this and it hasn't leaked yet.
**MAKE SURE YOU USE TEFLON TAPE OR TEFLON GOO, or something to seal up the threads....



Electronics:
Nothing covered in here requires an electrical engineering degree. However, it does require careful reading, a semi steady hand, and a soldering iron. Everything involving the mega-squirt unit is covered on their website, and I will provide links so you can reference their information.

-The first step is to create a rectifier for your ignition system. The goal is to take two pulses from your coils without back feeding and accidentally firing your coils. From my reading, a lot of the fizzers that run after market tachometers already have this installed. Either way, it is easy to make and costs lest than 10 dollars from radio shack.

The diagram for this circuit looks like this:



I placed it here on my bike:


Coolant Sensor and Intake Air Temperature sensor:

-The coolant sensor was placed in a 1/2 inch PVC t-fitting.
-A end cap was drilled and threaded 3/8 NPTF.
-The coolant sensor was threaded into the plug/cap
-The cap/plug was then placed in the center leg of the t-fitting.
-Two 2inch 1/2 inch pvc extensions were then bonded into the outer legs of the t-fitting. This allows for the hose to slide on easy.
-I then cut the return hose going to the radiator in half and slipped in the coolant sensor assembly.

It should look like this when you are done (I'll take a better picture when i take the fairing off again):

 Reduced: 80% of original size [ 798 x 450 ] - Click to view full image

The intake air temp sensor I just mounted into the air box. I found a rubber grommet at the auto parts store that worked great at holding in the sensor (picture coming soon!)

Next you have to build your mega-squirt system.

These links are helpful and i highly suggest you read them through before doing anything with your mega-squirt system.

Building the MS1 system: http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mass.htm
Building the relay box: http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspower.html
Building a relay cable: http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/relay-cable.html

This will take a while, but it pays to do it right, the first time.... Read everything carefully

When you have everything assembled, you need to wire it up to the motorcycle. Take your time and be organized, and do 1 WIRE AT A TIME and DOUBLE CHECK EVERY CRIMP YOU DO.

To wire up your mega-squirt, there is a DIY on a Chevy Nova done by the guys at diyautotune.com. At this point, your motorcycle is electrically no different than the Chevy Nova, actually its simpler.

Read up on the DIY here:
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/m...-part1-nova.htm
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/m...-part2-nova.htm
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/m...-part3-nova.htm

Part 1 is crucial, ignore the parts about the idle air control, oxygen sensor, and throttle body junk.
Part 2 is more or less for your reading enjoyment. We are not messing with ignition control.
Part 3 is important because it shows how to hook up the multiple injectors (MPFI)

I placed the Mega-squirt system on the rear fender under the rear seat:
It fits, but it is a tight squeeze.

 Reduced: 80% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image

 Reduced: 80% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image

 Reduced: 80% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image

So if everything is all wired up, plugged in, and powered up, you are ready to start tuning.

This link is crucial, I will not help you with any tuning questions until you read it:
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm

Once you read it, send me a PM and I'll email the most current .msq file, maps, and settings. Hopefully, if everything is done right, it should start up first try.

Tuning:

Assuming your bike is similar to mine, stock fzr motor with aftermarket exhaust, headers, and a drop in K&N filter, the VE table and .msq tune file should be enough for you to get it started and most likely good enough for you to start riding on.

The biggest thing that you need to do which will make your tuning experience a million times easier is to go to the store and pick up an extra set of spark plugs. I found out that these fizzer ignition systems are incredibly weak, and it is really easy to foul out. Also make sure your ignition system is working at a 100 percent. The boots come off, and there is a little screw inside the boot that you can pop out. Inside the boot there is a shim, a cap screw, and a spring. All of which get arc damage (that white fuzzy dust stuff similar to the inside of distributor cap on a car). So before you even try to crank your fzr, take apart your boots and clean them up with a little file.

So now that you have a strong spark, you are ready to tune. If you don't wish to use my .msq file and maps, read the mega-squirt1 tuning guide. And follow their steps very carefully. The only advice I have for you self-tuner guys (and gals) is when the mega-squirt 1 tuning guide gives you a number, reduce it (towards the leaner side) by 10%. Then when you have the bike idling, then start enriching it. DONT GO TOO LEAN, OR DRIVE IT UN-TUNED OR YOU MAY CAUSE DAMAGE... The 10% reduction is something that I found while tuning my bike and fouling out spark plugs every 20 minutes. Another tip for you self-tuners is when you use the generic VE-table generator, make sure you use the same amount of digits. For instance if the maximum rpm is 12000, and the maximum torque rpm is 5600, make sure you input the torque rpm as 05600. Their java applet is screwy and angry at you if you don't do that.

For those of you that want to do things the easier way, pm me for the .msq file and maps. This will get your bike idling almost instantaneously. And it should be pretty close to tuned.

My tuning method generally required the use of the but dyno. When the bike pulled good with out spewing a lot of black smoke, the butt dyno was happy and i knew i wasn't running too lean. The best way to tune (without an oxygen sensor) is to set up your map so you can drive up and down the street in front of your house/apartment/garage. ONLY MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO YOUR VE-map AT THIS POINT!!!! Once it drives respectably take it out on some bigger roads and try to operate it in as many ways possibly.

High load, low rpm : 1st/2nd gear going up a steep hill.
light load, low rpm : Cruising around at 25/30 mph, light throttle

High load, high rpm : winding her out, wide open throttle
light load, high rpm. : high way speeds, light throttle, high rpm


Once you get your ve-map configured pull out your plugs, and put in a new or clean set. Drive your bike for a little while (15 miles or so) and pull your plugs and see how they look. Here is a guide to let you know if you are running too rich or lean. Its not a exact science, but its a old school way to get things done, and its how they did it before wideband o2 sensors were standard. I am still in the process of dialing my tune in. However i'm taking my sweet time. If one was to be in a hurry, they could properly tune their bike in 2 days i figure. But that's two full days of driving, letting it cool, pulling plugs, cleaning plugs, adjusting maps, reinstalling plugs and driving again...

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

Once your tune is good, adjust the acceleration enrichment's to your liking. It is best to start with them rich and then lean them up little by little until you have solid engine response no matter how fast you twist the throttle

I did not want to pop a hole in my exhaust for an oxygen sensor. I might do so later, but for the way I drive (55mph, cruising, light town use) it is adequate for my uses. My vf750c has a oxygen sensor, and for anybody who wants the low down on how to tune with an oxygen sensor send me a pm. It's a much simpler process that requires data logging and telling the computer to figure things out.